Skip to content

6 Minute Finger Protection Session

Climbing is hard on the fingers. If you climb and/or train frequently then there's a good chance you've experienced finger pain and perhaps even an overuse injury. So, what can you do to reduce your risk of these finger injuries? This 6 minute finger protection session is one I use from Dr. Eric Hurst from Do this session 5-7 days a week and you’ll be on your way to stronger finger and fewer finger tweaks.

  1. 30 seconds of dumbbell finger rolls
    • Use a moderate weight and moderate intensity
  2. 30 seconds of finger extensions
    • Use a moderately thick rubber band and moderate Intensity
  3. 1 minute of 10/5 repeaters
    • Use larger holds on a hang board or anything that resembles a larger hold
    • Hang for 10 seconds and rest for 5 second, repeat for 1 minute total
    • The goal is not to train intensely or to get pumped, so don’t grab any small crimps or pockets
  4. Repeat numbers 1, 2, & 3 two more times
Share this article:


Last Updated: 12/5/23